Wednesday, 15 January 2014

Buyer's guide to waterproof jackets

 

 
 
The right jacket can turn winter riding from masochistic misery into a warm, enjoyable experience. The first thing to work out is what you want to use your jacket for as this affects fit, style and features. Will it be a multipurpose Sunday ride stalwart? Does it need to look good for the post-ride pub, or will you only ever pull it on for rides well away from the fashion police?

Fit

All kinds of fits are available, from super-snug race jackets to looser, freeride-style coats. Closer fitting tops will flap less and breathe more effectively, but a more relaxed fit gives freedom of movement and more scope for layering. Between the two extremes is a good place to be.

Performance

For max ride performance you need a long back and lengthy sleeves to keep fully covered, and a skinny cut that won't flap in high winds. Fewer features mean lighter weight and smaller pack size, while pit zips and reflectivity are more important performance considerations than hand warmer pockets and style.

Materials

Don't get sucked in by fabric hype. Whatever it says on the label about high WVT/waterproofing ratings, breathability, wicking or sweat shifting, if you ride your bike hard you'll sweat more than any current fabric will cope with.
Top rated fabrics like eVENT, Gore-Tex, etc, will keep you dry inside and out when cruising, but hammer it and you'll be building up steam from the start... What you wear underneath is important too: never wear cotton as this holds on to sweat, rendering the most expensive coat useless.
To maximise fabric performance look for sleeves you can pull up and pit zips: bloodflow around the wrists and armpits is close to the surface so these are great areas for cooling your core temperature. Check the coat's features work with any straps of bags you normally use too. Also, make sure it fits well enough that it doesn't let water in at the neck.
Finally, make sure the jacket suits your life. Is it easy to wash? Does it stain permanently if you get it near the chain? Is it durable enough to cope with crashes and bramble bushes? Does it pack up small enough to stow? Think of all your needs before spending your moolah.
Collar
High collars are great for keeping out draughts and a bit of fleece works wonders for boosting heat and comfort. Hoods add storm protection but make sure they don't flap about when you're not using them.
Sleeves
Need to be long to cover your wrists and ideally some of your hand even when you stretch to the bars; adjustable cuffs let you pull the sleeves up your arm to cool down.
Zips
Full front zips make jackets easy to put on without having to take your helmet off. Being right at the front, they’re an obvious chink in the anti-weather armour, so look for internal or external storm flaps. Zip garages will stop the zip irritating your neck when closed.
Pit-zips
Underarm zips: the longer they are the more 'air con' you'll get when open. Check the gap stays fully open when you're riding along, and that bag straps don't stop them working.
Hem
A dropped tail covers your bum and stops draughts and wheel spray getting up your back, but it can give a slightly 'penguin' look. Drawcords also help to stop draughts and keep the jacket in place.
Pockets
Front pockets are useful for odds and sods, but back pockets get in the way less on the bike.
Hoods
A lot of cycling jackets don’t have hoods, mainly because a lot of people never use them – designing a hood that works well with a bike helmet isn’t that easy, and the helmet itself keeps the worst of the rain off. They’re potentially useful when you’re static, though, and if they’re detachable then you’ve got the best of both worlds.

http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/buyers-guide-to-weatherproof-jackets-1001/

Wednesday, 8 January 2014

Dealing with wet weather on a road bike

Coping with adverse cycling conditions on the road


Road biking can be highly dangerous when the roads are wet. Wet weather radically alters the conditions for the bike rider, meaning the cycling techniques employed in dry conditions have to be adjusted accordingly.
Not only does wet weather lead to a soggy and potentially uncomfortable cycle ride, there is also a significant effect on a bike’s tires, brakes and also on a cyclist’s cornering ability, visibility and group riding techniques. Here’s realbuzz.com’s guide on how to beat the dangers of wet weather safely and healthily.

Bicycle tires

Rain affects the grip of tyres on the road meaning that it is necessary to reduce speeds.

Bike brakes

Wet bicycle brake pads are less effective in slowing the cycle. To keep the brakes in a condition where they will produce some braking even when wet, it is best to keep some light pressure on the brake pads. The pads rubbing against the wheel rims wipes away the water so they can respond when pressed.

Cornering on your bicycle in the wet

When cornering, it is best to keep the cycle more upright than in dry conditions.Lean the body more into the turn than the bicycle itself.

Cycling visibility

In heavy rain, visibility can be poor, with water running into the eyes and spray coming up from other vehicles or cyclists. Glasses with clear or yellow lenses produce the best visibility in heavy rain. Also it is best to make yourself visible to others with a brightly coloured rain jacket.

Cycling in a group in wet conditions

When riding with others, it is best not to ride directly behind the rider in front as this throws up spray and grit. Also, stopping distances will be affected in the wet so it is best to keep a safe distance apart to avoid collisions.

Article Source - http://www.realbuzz.com/articles/dealing-with-wet-weather-on-a-road-bike/

Sunday, 15 December 2013

New cycle safety film illustrates a lorry driver’s perspective




A new film by the Met Police is designed to show the dangers that can arise from a typical interaction between a cyclist and a driver.
It’s a useful film, which shows how easy it is for a cyclist to disappear in a blind spot.
It’s certainly well intentioned and I hope that as many cyclists, pedestrians and drivers in London view it, which is the reason I’m sharing it here.
This applies not just to new cyclists, but also to experienced cyclists who are worth reminding of the dangers.
Education is certainly part of the solution to making the roads safer, however it has its limits.
As I write this, the video has been viewed by 6,000 people. London is a city of nearly 10 million. Obviously, the reach is limited. Even if we could get 10 million to watch the video, accidents would continue.
Doctors are educated, they know about the dangers of obesity, yet you still find plenty of fat doctors.
We all know we should recycle more, yet if it isn’t convenient we won’t do it.
You can grab a cyclist, slap them round the head and tell them to never ride on the inside of a HGV but they’ll still probably do it as some stage.
Changing behaviours is difficult. I’d encourage cyclists to go on an actual cycle training course and have that tactile experience, as it is more likely to ingrain the behaviour.
What will cause a deeper reduction in deaths and injuries is the way we design our roads. The majority of people who will hop on a bike tomorrow, will have no idea about the dangers of Heavy Goods Vehicles. They won’t have seen this YouTube video, or been on a training course, or been stopped by a police officer as part of the recent initiatives or read this cycling blog.
The only way to keep those people safe, is by designing our roads in such a way that we reduce dangerous interactions between drivers and cyclists.
If you found the video interesting and useful, forward it to your friends who cycle. I’d be interested in seeing how many total views the video can get. The more people it reaches, the greater the chance it has to make a difference.


Article source http://www.londoncyclist.co.uk/new-cycle-safety-film-illustrates-lorry-driver-perspective/